Paint Grade Doors

What Are Paint Grade Internal Doors?

Paint grade internal doors are doors manufactured with materials and surfaces ideal for painting rather than staining or leaving natural. Unlike doors with natural wood finishes, paint grade doors feature smooth, flat, knot-free surfaces that ensure paint adheres evenly and looks great. They typically come unfinished or primed in a neutral colour (such as white primer), acting as a blank canvas ready for your chosen paint.

Key characteristics of paint grade doors include:

• Smooth Surface: The facing material (often MDF or hardboard) has no pronounced wood grain. This means once painted, the door shows a uniform texture without wood grain patterns showing through.
• Minimal Detailing: Many paint grade doors have simple or flush designs (flat panels), although some might have basic panel designs or shaker styles. The simplicity makes it easy to apply paint and even add your own decorative touches if desired.
• Primed or Unfinished: Most paint grade internal doors are sold either primed (with a base coat applied at the factory) or as raw paint-ready wood. A primed door saves time, requiring only a light sanding and topcoat of paint. An unprimed door will need a coat of quality primer before painting for best results.
• Engineered Construction: Rather than solid oak or exotic hardwoods, these doors commonly use engineered components (like MDF doors or composite cores) that are cost-effective and stable - perfect for painting and everyday use.
  
  

Benefits

• Unlimited Colour Options: With a paintable surface, you can finish the door in any colour or sheen you desire. Whether you want classic white internal doors or a bold accent colour, paint grade doors give you full creative control. You can even change the colour in the future if you redecorate - something not easily done with pre-finished or veneered doors.
• Affordability: These doors are generally more affordable than solid hardwood or premium veneered doors. The use of MDF or other engineered materials keeps costs down without compromising on durability. This makes them a budget-friendly choice for large projects or cost-conscious renovations.
• Customisability: Beyond just colour, paint grade doors offer a blank canvas for other custom touches. You can add trim mouldings, panels, or even apply wallpaper or special paint effects to achieve a bespoke look. Their smooth surface readily accepts various paints (latex, acrylic, oil-based enamels) so you can get the finish (matte, satin, gloss) you prefer.
• Consistency and Coverage: Because the surface has no heavy grain or knots, you get a consistent finish with fewer coats of paint. There’s no need to worry about wood tannins or knot bleed-through. The result is a professional, uniform appearance with relative ease.
• Repairability: If the door gets scuffs, dents or scratches over time, it’s easy to fill minor imperfections and repaint. Maintenance is straightforward - a fresh coat of paint can make the door look brand new again, extending its lifespan without needing full replacement.

Lippings and Edges

Most internal doors, including paint grade, have solid wood lippings on the edges. A lipping is a strip of wood (often 10-20mm thick) on each side of the door’s core, allowing the installer to trim the door to fit the frame without exposing the inner core. 

On paint grade doors, these lippings are usually made of a paint-friendly wood (like pine or other softwood/hardwood that will take paint nicely). When you cut the door to size or cut in for hinges/locks, you’ll be cutting into this lipping or the core - after which you should prime and paint those cut edges to seal them.

Best Practices for Preparation

To get the most out of your paint grade doors, it’s important to install and finish them properly. 

• Acclimate the Door: Before installation or painting, bring the door into the room where it will be installed for at least a couple of days. This lets the door acclimate to the humidity and temperature, reducing the chance of warping or movement after installation (this is especially important for solid-core or timber component doors).
• Trim to Fit (If Needed): Paint grade doors often come in standard sizes that fit most frames, but you may need to trim the edges for an exact fit. Check the manufacturer’s guidelines on how much you can trim (e.g., often up to 6-10mm per side on lipped doors). Use a fine-tooth saw and try to take equal amounts off each side for balance. Always trim the bottom of fire doors carefully and within allowed limits to maintain their rating. After trimming, seal any cut edges with primer or wood sealer to protect against moisture.
• Sand and Prep the Surface: If the door is pre-primed, a light sanding with fine sandpaper (180-240 grit) will smooth any roughness and help the topcoat adhere. If unprimed, you'll need to sand and then apply a coat of quality wood primer. Also, sand the edges you trimmed. Wipe away all dust with a tack cloth or damp rag before painting – a clean surface is essential for a smooth finish.
• Remove Hardware (or plan for hardware): It’s easier to paint a door on sawhorses or a work bench than when it’s hung. Remove any removable hardware like handles or latch plates. If the door is new, you’ll need to cut the recesses for hinges and drill for the handle/lockset. It’s often best to do this before painting, as drilling and chiseling can mar the surface. Once your hardware fitting is done, take the hardware off for the actual painting process. Tip: Mark the hinge positions on the door and frame with pencil and test-fit before painting to ensure everything lines up.

Best Practises for Painting

• Painting Technique: Lay the door flat if possible for painting; this helps avoid drips. Use a high-density foam roller for large flat areas to get a smooth coat, and a brush for edges or panel details. Apply paint in thin, even coats. Two coats of a high quality interior paint are usually sufficient over a primed door (follow paint manufacturer instructions for drying times and recoating). Don’t forget to paint the top and bottom edges of the door - these are often neglected but need sealing to prevent moisture ingress. For a professional finish, some people lightly sand between coats.
• Ventilation and Safety: Paint in a well-ventilated area. If using solvent-based paints, ensure you wear a mask and keep the area ventilated until fumes dissipate. Keep dust to a minimum while painting to avoid particles sticking to the wet paint.

Best Practises for Installation

• Installation: After the paint is fully dry and hardened (give it a day or two after the final coat to avoid finger marks), attach the hinges and hardware. It’s a good idea to have a helper when hanging a door. Use solid screws for hinges (and if the door is heavy or a fire door, typically use three hinges instead of two for extra support). Check that the door opens and closes smoothly without rubbing the frame. If you need to plane or adjust any edges after painting, be prepared to touch up those areas with paint again.
• Finishing Touches: Once installed, confirm that all edges have been coated with paint or primer. Install any remaining hardware like handles, locks, and door stops. If the door has a lot of handling during install and gets a bit dirty, you can gently clean it or do small touch-ups.
• Maintenance: Going forward, use gentle cleaners on painted doors to avoid stripping paint. If you used a decent semi-gloss or satin interior paint, the surface should be wipeable. Every few years (or as needed), inspect for any chips or wear; spot-sand and repaint those areas to keep the door looking fresh. Because it’s a paint grade door, maintenance is straightforward, you don’t have to worry about matching wood grain or special stains.