Wood Drill Bits

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Wood drill bits are shaped to guide cleanly into timber and give you a smooth, accurate result without splintering or tearing out the surface. Unlike standard bits, they’re built to stay centered and clear away dust as they cut, making the job easier and the finish neater.

Find Out More About Our Types of Wood Drill Bits
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Understanding Wood Drill Bits

Wood drill bits are cutting tools designed specifically to bore holes in timber. Unlike general-purpose bits, wood bits are optimised to reduce tear-out, guide cleanly through grain, and remove waste material as they cut. 

They come in a range of shapes, lengths, and tips - each suited to different tasks and types of wood.

Most include a pointed tip or spur that anchors the bit at the centre before the cutting edges engage. This allows for more control and cleaner entry, especially on visible surfaces.

Common Types of Wood Drill Bits

There isn’t one wood drill bit that suits every job. It all depends on what you're drilling into and how clean a finish you want. 

Flat Bits (Also Called Spade Bits)

These are made for speed, not finesse.  They cut fast and rough, which is perfect for hidden work. Great for wiring, pipe runs, or anything that’s going to be hidden inside a wall. Not the tool for cabinetry or anything on show.

Brad Point Bits

Sometimes called lip-and-spur bits. These are made for accuracy. The pointed tip bites in first, which keeps the hole from wandering. The outer edges cut clean circles through timber, even soft ply. You’ll want these for furniture, dowel joints, and anything that needs to look tidy.

Auger Bits

These are long, deep-cutting bits with a screw tip on the end. The screw pulls the bit through the wood while the spiral clears the waste. They’re ideal for thick timber—like joists or beams—and useful for older, harder woods too. Best run at slower speeds with a drill that has torque.

Forstner Bits

A bit more specialist. These are used when you need a flat-bottomed hole, say, for hidden hinges or counterboring. They leave a clean edge with no tear-out, but they work best with a steady hand or a drill press. More common in cabinet shops or fine joinery than on site.

Hole Saws

These aren’t really bits in the usual sense, but they’re used with a drill all the same. A ring-shaped cutter that bores wide holes, like for pipework, cable feeds, or vents. You’ll usually find a small pilot drill in the centre to stop it from sliding around.

What to Think About Before You Drill

  • The Type of Wood: Softwoods are usually easygoing. You can get away with most bits and still come out okay. Hardwoods like oak or walnut need a sharper edge and slower speed, or you’ll end up burning the surface or blunting the bit.
  • The Visibility of the Hole: If the hole will be seen, especially in furniture or finished joinery, you’ll want minimal tear-out, clean entry, and no chipping. This is where brad points or Forstner bits excel.
  • Drill Speed: High-speed drilling through wood can cause heat build-up and lead to burnt edges, especially with larger bits. When in doubt, slow the drill down and let the bit do the work.
  • Depth of Cut: Going deep? Use auger bits or extra-long spade bits. Avoid forcing short bits beyond their design, they’ll wander or overheat.


Tips & Advice

  • Always let the bit start itself - don’t push too hard at the beginning
  • Clamp or support your timber to reduce movement and splintering
  • Back out the bit occasionally on deep holes to clear debris
  • Use a scrap backing board to prevent blowout on the exit side
  • Keep a mix of sizes and types - there’s no one bit for everything


Why Buy Quality Bits?

Cheap wood bits might do for a one-off job, but they tend to dull quickly, clog with waste, or miss the mark slightly. Investing in better-quality bits means:

  • Cleaner holes
  • Straighter entry
  • Longer lifespan
  • Less risk of burning or blowout


We supply a wide range of wood drill bits, from basic trade packs to precision sets for joinery and carpentry. Whether you’re roughing out studs or installing soft-close hinges, we’ve got the bit to match the job.

Frequently Asked Wood Drill Bits Questions

What’s the Best Type of Bit for General Woodworking?

For clean, accurate holes in most timber, brad point bits tend to be the best all-rounder. They’re sharp, accurate, and reduce splintering. Keep a full set from 3mm to 12mm for most tasks.

Can I Use Metal Bits on Wood?

You can, but it’s not ideal. Metal bits don’t have a pointed tip to guide the hole, so they tend to skate across the surface and produce ragged edges. Use them only in a pinch.

What’s the Difference Between a Brad Point and a Spade Bit?

Brad points are designed for precision and clean entry - great for finish work. Spade bits are fast but rough, best used where appearance doesn’t matter (e.g., studs, floorboards, or hidden wiring).

How Do I Avoid Tear-Out When Drilling Through Plywood?

Use a sharp brad point or Forstner bit, clamp the sheet firmly, and always drill with a backing board underneath to stop the bottom layer from breaking out.

What’s the Point of the Screw Tip on Auger Bits?

It pulls the bit through the wood without you needing to apply much pressure. This makes them ideal for deeper holes, but they’re best used at slow drill speeds with good torque.

Can I Use a Hole Saw in Timber?

Yes, hole saws are commonly used for larger openings in wood, like running pipes or cables through joists. Just make sure you’re using one with a pilot drill in the centre for stability.

How Do I Keep the Bit From Wandering When Starting a Hole?

Use a centre punch or mark the spot clearly. A brad point or auger bit will naturally centre itself, but a pilot hole can help if you’re using other types.

What Should I Do If the Bit Starts Burning the Wood?

Stop immediately, clear the waste, and reduce your drill speed. Bit burn usually means friction from dull edges or drilling too fast. Sharp bits and the right speed prevent this.

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